The island's western district contains a dense, 15-acre forest called the "rain forest," though it's not a real one. The area is thick with mahogany trees, kapok (silk-cotton) trees, turpentine (red-birch) trees, samaan (rain) trees, and all kinds of ferns and vines. Sweet limes, mangoes, hog plums, and breadfruit trees, all of which have grown in the wild since the days of the plantations, are also interspersed among the larger trees. Crested hummingbirds, pearly eyed thrashers, green-throated caribs, yellow warblers, and perky but drably camouflaged bananaquits nest in the trees. The 150-foot-high Creque Dam is the major man-made sight in the area.

The rain forest is private property, but the owner lets visitors go inside to explore. To experience its charm, some visitors opt to drive along Route 76 (which is also known as Mahogany Road), stopping beside the footpaths that meander off on either side of the highway into dry riverbeds and glens. It's advisable to stick to the best-worn of the footpaths. You can also hike along some of the little-traveled four-wheel-drive roads in the area. Three of the best for hiking are the Creque Dam Road (Routes 58/78), the Scenic Road (Route 78), and the Western Scenic Road (Routes 63/78).

Our favorite moderate trail in this area takes about 2 1/2 hours one-way. From Frederiksted, drive north on Route 63 until you reach Creque Dam Road, where you should turn right, park the car, and start walking. About 1 mile past the 150-foot Creque Dam, you'll be deep within the forest's magnificent flora and fauna. Continue along the trail until you come to the Western Scenic Road. Eventually, you reach Mahogany Road (Route 76) near St. Croix Leap.

You could also begin near the junction of Creque Dam Road and Scenic Road. From here, your trek will cover a broad triangular swath, heading north and then west along Scenic Road. First, the road will rise, then it will descend toward the coastal lighthouse of the island's extreme northwestern tip, Hamm's Bluff. Most trekkers decide to retrace their steps after about 45 minutes of northwesterly hiking. Real diehards, however, should continue trekking all the way to the coastline, then head south along the coastal road (Butler Bay Road), and finally head east along Creque Dam Road to the starting point at the junction of Creque Dam Road and Scenic Road. Embark on this longer expedition only if you're really prepared for a hike lasting about 5 hours.